Ratsnake Albino (Pantherophis obsoletus)
Ratsnake Albino Pantherophis obsoletus | |
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Name | Ratsnake Albino |
Name Lat. | Pantherophis obsoletus |
Synonym | Elaphe obsoleta obselata |
Family | Colubrids |
Family lat. | Colubridae |
Order | Scaled Reptiles |
Order lat. | Squamata |
Origin | USA |
Habitat | Forests, shrubland |
Diet | Rodents |
Humidity | 50-80 % |
Behavior | Semi-aggressive |
Keeping | Individual, pair, group |
Care Level | Moderate |
Reproduction | Oviparous |
Housing | Semi-humid terrarium |
Life Span | 15-20 years |
Protection | No |
Metric Units | |
Size | 90-150 cm |
Temperature | 22-28 °C |
Temperature Local | 30-35 °C |
Housing Size | 150 x 70 x 130 cm |
US Units | |
Size | 35"-60" |
Temperature | 72-82 °F |
Temperature Local | 86-95 °F |
Housing Size | 60" x 30" x 50" |
Distribution and habitat
The predominantly crepuscular ground snakes are native to the United States, except in the West. There, the good climbers live in sparse forests, swamps and grasslands. In their distribution areas there are several color variants.
Maintenance
Minimum dimensions for the terrarium, according to the size and number of animals:
1-2 animals | 1KL x 0,5KL x 1KL (L x W x H) |
Body length (KL) is measured on the largest animal. For each additional animal the floor space should be increased by 20%. A terrarium of e.g. L 150 x W 70 x H 130 cm is recommended, which should be placed in a quiet and vibration-free place.
They need a terrarium structured with roots, climbing branches, cork tubes and bamboo sticks (hiding places and privacy screen) with a moisture-retaining substrate, e.g. of sand-humus mixture with peat and foliage, as well as an easy-to-clean water basin as drinking vessel. Half of the substrate should always be kept slightly moist (no waterlogging), for which e.g. plates of sphagnum moss are well suited. Once a day, preferably in the evening, the inside of the terrarium should be finely sprayed with water (humidity). A rain or mist system is ideal
Temp. day: 22-28 °C | Temp. night: 18-22 °C | Temp. local: up to 35 °C | Humidity: 50-80 |
Thermostatically controlled floor heating is recommended. Lighting duration must be 12-14 hrs depending on the season. Daylight fluorescent tubes supplemented with spotlights are ideal.
Diet
The food supply consists of live small rodents (e.g. mice, rats) as well as chicks or small pigeons according to their size. After successful acclimatization often succeeds the switch to dead food animals (commercial frozen food). Juveniles should be offered food every 3-5 days, adults every 7-14 days, with occasional periods of fasting (e.g., skipping a feeding). If the snake is disturbed after feeding, this may result in vomiting of the prey. It is better to offer several small feeders, rather than one large one. If it does not eat for a long period of time, both the timing and the food should be varied. It is important to fortify the food animals with vitamins and minerals. Since the snake could be injured by live rodents, it should not be left unattended with them.
Reproduction and breeding
Probing by the veterinarian is the only reliable method of sex determination.
The female lays her eggs (12-20 pieces) in the moist, about 5 cm deep substrate and does not engage in brood care. The incubation period is 60-80 days at a temperature of 28 °C. The young are 25-30 cm in size and can be fed with nest young mice.
Important
They are well tolerated among themselves, but should be separated when feeding so as not to injure each other when they go to the food animal. When threatened, they vibrate their tails and purposefully release strong-smelling feces. Generally, they are considered to be biting
To prevent stereotypies, the terrarium should be changed occasionally. Often a foreign object such as a root or similar is sufficient.
A winter rest of 3-5 months at a temperature of 7-12 °C accompanied by a break in feeding is recommended.Always have snake hooks and protective gloves ready when handling.The terrarium must have good ventilation without drafts and meet the species-specific needs. Measuring devices such as thermometers, hygrometers, etc. are necessary. The lighting has to correspond to the species-specific day-night rhythm and has to be placed in such a way that the animals cannot injure themselves. The terrarium should be locked in such a way that neither unauthorized persons can open it nor the animals can escape. Contamination must be removed regularly
Further literature can be found in your pet store.
References
Text: petdata; Image: petdata
Source: BMELV (1997): Tierschutzgutachten - Mindestanforderungen an die Haltung von Reptilien; ENGELMANN (2006): Zootierhaltung - Tiere in menschlicher Obhut: Reptilien und Amphibien, Harri Deutsch Verlag
- Gemäß § 21 Abs. 5 Tierschutzgesetz idgF