Red-sided Garter Snake (Thamnophis sirtalis parietalis)

Red-sided Garter Snake Thamnophis sirtalis parietalis
Name	Red-sided Garter Snake
Name Lat.	Thamnophis sirtalis parietalis
Family	Colubrids
Family lat.	Colubridae
Order	Scaled Reptiles
Order lat.	Squamata
Origin	North America
Habitat	Water proximity
Diet	Fish, amphibians, rodents
Humidity	50-70 %
Behavior	Peaceful
Keeping	Individual, pair, group
Care Level	Easy
Reproduction	Ovoviviparous
Housing	Semi-humid terrarium
Life Span	5-10 years
Protection	No
Metric Units
Size	60-90 cm
Temperature	20-25 °C
Temperature Local	28-30 °C
Housing Size	120 x 70 x 60 cm
US Units
Size	24"-35"
Temperature	68-77 °F
Temperature Local	82-86 °F
Housing Size	45" x 30" x 25"

Distribution and habitat

Primarily diurnal, San Francisco garter snakes are found exclusively in California, in the San Francisco Peninsula area. They inhabit a variety of habitats, from forests to cultivated land always near slow-moving or standing water.

Maintenance

Minimum dimensions for the terrarium, according to the size and number of animals:

1-2 animals

1,25KL x 0,75KL x 0,5KL (L x W x H)

Body length (KL) is measured on the largest animal. For each additional animal the floor space should be increased by 20%. A terrarium of L 120 x W 70 x H 60 cm for 1-2 animals is recommended, which should be placed in a quiet and vibration-free place.

They need a terrarium structured with roots, climbing branches, cork tubes and bamboo sticks (hiding places and visual protection) with a moisture-retaining substrate, e.g. of sand-humus mixture with peat and foliage, as well as a large, easy-to-clean water basin as drinking and bathing possibility. Part of the substrate should always be kept slightly moist (no waterlogging). Several times a week, preferably in the evening, the inside of the terrarium should be finely sprayed with water (humidity), but a rain or mist system is better.

Temp. day: 20-25 °C

Temp. night: 18-22 °C

Temp. local: up to 30 °C

Humidity: 50-70

Thermostatically controlled floor heating is recommended. Lighting duration must be 12-14 hrs depending on the season. Daylight fluorescent tubes supplemented with UV lamps are ideal.

Diet

The food supply consists of live fish, lizards, amphibians, earthworms, dewworms and mice according to their size. After successful acclimation, the changeover to dead food animals (commercial frozen food) is often successful. Juveniles should be offered food every 3-5 days, adults every 7-14 days, with occasional periods of fasting (e.g., skipping a feeding). If the snake is disturbed after feeding, this may result in vomiting of the prey. It is better to offer several small feeders, rather than one large one. If it does not eat for a long period of time, both the timing and the food should be varied. It is important to fortify the food animals with vitamins and minerals. Since the snake could be injured by live rodents, it should not be left unattended with them.

Reproduction and breeding

Probing by the veterinarian is the only reliable method of sex determination

The shape of the tail or a thickening in the area of the hemipenis pockets are not definitive sexual characteristics. Garter snakes are viviparous (ovoviviparous). The gestation period is 4-6 months. The young are fully developed at birth and only need to pierce the egg membrane surrounding them. Litter sizes of 5-20 animals are the rule.

Life expectancy can be 5-10 years.

Important

As a breeding form, they are available in different color varieties

They need dry sunny places warmed by radiators. Special attention should be paid to an escape-proof terrarium, as they can squeeze their bodies through the smallest crevices. When threatened, they can emit strong-smelling feces

For the dormancy period, shorten the lighting time by 4-6 hours for 2-5 months and lower the temperature to 10-15 °C, depending on the origin.

Always have snake hooks and protective gloves ready when handling.

The terrarium must have good ventilation without drafts and meet the species specific needs. Measuring devices such as thermometers, hygrometers, etc. are necessary. The lighting has to correspond to the species-specific day-night rhythm and has to be placed in such a way that the animals cannot injure themselves. The terrarium should be locked in such a way that neither unauthorized persons can open it nor the animals can escape. Contamination must be removed regularly

Further literature can be found in your pet store.

References

Text: Christian Sänger; Image: Franz Lowak

Source: BMELV (1997): Tierschutzgutachten -  Mindestanforderungen an die Haltung von Reptilien; ENGELMANN (2006): Zootierhaltung - Tiere in menschlicher Obhut: Reptilien und Amphibien, Harri Deutsch Verlag

• Gemäß § 21 Abs. 5 Tierschutzgesetz idgF